Vehicle Integration - Link vs Escape Drivable Kit?
Hello,
Planning a van buildout and want to have a GoalZero product as the electrical hub.
It appears the "Yeti Pro Escape Drivable Kit" is being pushed as the best way to integrate into a van build, but looks to have some major drawbacks as compared to buying a 3000x + the "Link Vehicle Integration Kit". Is the escape drivable ecosystem new? Why are there not examples/literature/references on tying it into a van alternator/battery?
For example, why doesn't the Escape Drivable kit come with the same high-capacity input connection for charging while driving? Manual says to connect using 8mm DC to alternator or battery (limited to 10A@12V), but that's only 120w!
Is GZ assuming folks use the HPP and connect to an EC8 12' extension cable and EC8 to ring terminal with fuse (sim to SKU 98205) using the High Voltage DC Input? Why wouldn't this be part of the kit off the shelf OR in the manual as a way to charge the station? Does the Pro 4000 have the internal "brain" to know when to pull from the battery in the same way the Link Integration kit did? If not, why wasn't the same Link hardware/kit used in the drivable kit?
Cheers and thanks in advance for responding - maybe I'm looking at this all wrong!
Comments
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Hello @skimaddox
Yes, the Escape drivable/towable eco system is the latest vehicle integration option that was released in October of 2023. The Escape kit is meant to be used with our Yeti Pro 4000. The Escape kits are not meant to be used with our previous Yeti power stations. The Yeti link is essentially integrated into the Pro 4000. This makes for less moving parts and an easier install. Below is a breakdown of the Drivable and Towable kits.
Drivable:
The idea with the drivable kit is that you utilize the HPP input for alternator charging. The 8mm port will be used for solar input. Most sprinter vans and overland vehicles do not have much space for larger solar arrays on the roof.
Towable:
The towable kit is meant to be used with RVs and larger vehicles. Since there is more space on the roof of the vehicle you can make a larger solar array that will be plugged into the HPP input. The car charging will come from the 8mm to bare wire. This can connect to the alternator or the trailer pin. The 8mm port has a max of 275 watts of input.
The other key difference to mention is that the X-line Yetis had a 12V Lithium battery pack. The Pro 4000 has a 52V battery so it's no longer as simple as hooking an 8AWG cable between the Alternator and Link anymore to pull 60-70 Amps at 12-14V and up to 700W.
The Yeti Pro 4000 HPP+ input can take in 12-150V at up to 40 Amps. Alternator would at most produce 12-14V * 40A = 480-560W
The Yeti Pro 4000 8mm input on the Pro 4000 can take in 12-28V at up to 10 Amps. Alternator would at most produce 12-14V * 10A = 120-140W
Both of those ports on the Yeti Pro 4000 have new code that will protect a starting battery from being over drained, just like the Link does in Car mode.
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My van currently has a Yeti 1400 with Link Vehicle Integration kit for fast alternator charging and also two 200W solar panels on the roof connected to the 1400's power pole input.
I am trying to understand from the description above if the 4000 is a suitable upgrade from what I have now. It sounds like I cannot have both the fast alternator charging and also 400W for solar?
I have loved my Yeti 1400 for years, I just want more battery storage. -
Hello @plate ,
You are correct that you cannot use the fast alternator charging at the same time as that much solar. You can certainly swap them out when you park so you get the solar while the car is off and then swap again when it is time to drive.
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Thank you, Admin, but I'm sad this is the answer. In another thread someone suggested a relay that could switch between Alternator and Solar, this may have to be the way if I can't find an alternative. I have LOVED my Yeti 1400, I wish there was a new model that could slide in to replace it without having to work around limitations. Thank you.
